We had a good sailing from Suwarrow. The two first days were windy (15-30 kt) and gave us an average speed around 6 kt. The two last days were calmer (5-10 kt) and we had to run the motor for about 16 hours. On the third day we had three humpback wales (6-8 meter long) playing around the boat.
It always feels relieving when we have reached the new port. This time the chart didn’t match the reality but it was pretty easy to see water breaking on the reefs. A dingy from the harbour met us and showed us in to the marina. The Marina is new (opened August 2007) and it seems you must go in there. Only big yachts are allowed to anchor outside. It’s not very expensive though. We paid 33 tollar (12 usd) a day. Mike and Tracy from Peregrine arrived three hours before us and helped us with the lines when we came in. Peregrine did departure at the same time from Suwarrow as we did and adjusted their speed to ours the whole trip to keep radio contact.
We liked Samoa although there were things that felt irritating. First of all, it’ is very cheap especially compared to French Polynesia. We ate on restaurants and cafés and didn’t cook very much on the boat. A lunch was about 4-7 usd, dinner 7-15 usd, a beer 1,50 usd, rent a car for one day 70 usd etc. It was also a very social time in Samoa. We socialized much with Mike and Tracy and had a really nice time. Rented a car one day together to see some more of Upolu. Found a fresh water cave to swim in, saw some blowholes and some nice views. By the way, one thing was pretty expensive. Internet was 10 tollar an hour and if you plugged in your own laptop the price was between 15-20 tallar an hour.
What we didn’t like was that you had to pay for every sights you visited, not very much (2-10 tallar which at the moment is about 1-5 usd). When we ordered a drink in the restaurant or the bar you were supposed to pay when it was served. Had a beer at the yacht club (dingy club) and had to pay 2 tallar for the facility the waitress called us a taxi. When you arrive with a boat there is five different persons who will visit you before you are free to leave the boat: Immigration, custom, quarantine, health and personal from the marina. A lot of forms to fill in.
To experience more of the real Samoan culture, Savaii seems to be a better option. To go there you need a permit. The permit is not hard to get but you have to go to the government building with boat papers and passport. Issued when at the time you get there. After eight days in Apia (Upolu) we sailed up to Asau on Savaii. Much is similar to the more remote villages from Apia on Upolu. There is a bus to catch but it takes at least three hours to go to the bigger city/village – Salolonga. Instead we hired a man with a car to take us around the island. Went first to see the blowholes (more and bigger than those on Upolu) then to Salolonga to do some Internet. Before we were back we checked out a lava field and a bit further away we swam with turtles.
After four days it was time to move on. Next port: Tonga.
